Any One Seen My Clutch?

[Fat Paul]

B) I've got the 2.0 Petrol Galaxy (P reg).

 

The clutch played up for an hour a week and a half ago - the biting point got lower and lower until I could'nt get the thing anywhere near a gear. I pulled it over to look for anything obvious at the roadside. Finding nothing, I decided to limp it home with no clutch. The rest sorted it out, the cluch was back and good as new!

 

Now, I know that having been given a reprive, I should have done a bit of exploration - but do you really want to be getting into a clutch if you dont absolutley have to?

 

Well, of course, a week and a half later (and very suddenly) it gave up on me. The peddle travels freely with no resistance at all, so I'm thinking Master Cylinder! However there is no evidence of leaking fluid near the peddle, so now I'm thinking slave cylinder! Oh, did I mention the faint tinkling sound??? Now I'm thinking Spring!

 

Any one had this problem?

 

Do I just have to open the thing up to find the problem?

 

I Hate Clutch Repairs!!!!

 

Cheers B) :blink: :o

[MadBaz]

I had this prob just after I got mine, was the slave cylinder, tell tale sign is fluid leaking from the bell housing. Another symptom was if you try bleeding the clutch little or no fluid can be bled, however you get a nice puddle under the car a short while later. may be worth changing the clutch plate at the same time as the slave, cos there is hell of a lot of work involved and it may be contaminated, my Gals previous owner changed the plate but not the slave. HAVE FUN.

 

ps: got my bits from HERE, the VW 2.0 ltr petrol parts are the same as the Ford.

 

pps: welcome to the madhouse B)

Edited July 25, 2007 by MADBAZ

[craig245t]

In my opinion there is a problem with Ford Galaxy clutch master cylinders. I had the same symptoms at the start of the year...the pedal felt strange for a few days then went straight to the floor and didn't come back up. I started to investigate and found the following:-

 

1. The slave cylinder inside the gearbox (expensive due to labour) is the most common hydraulic component to fail. DO NOT jump to conclusions though - follow a logical and simple fault diagnosis procedure.

 

2. If the slave cylinder is faulty it normally leaks fluid past the seals into the cluth bellhousing then onto the road or onto the engine undertray - has the fluid in the brake/clutch cylinder dropped? Is there signs of fluid under the gearbox/bellhousing or on the road where you park. If so then the slave may be faulty.

 

3. Check the fluid level in the combined brake/clutch reservoir. Slacken the bleed screw and fit a one person bleed pipe. Pump the clutch pedal by hand. If you dont get fluid coming out of the pipe the the master cylinder is faulty. Think about it - if the master cylinder is not producing pressure then it cannot operate the slave cylinder.

 

4. When the master cylinder fails it does not usually leak fluid externally. I dont know why.

 

5. There is an unusual method to bleed the clutch after fitting a new master cylinder. I cannot provide details just now but suggest you buy a Ford TIS CD from e-bay for about

[Fat Paul]

Apprieciate your help on that one - but i've got the fluid leak from the bell housing so its not looking too good.

[Fat Paul]

;) :lol: :wacko: :blink: :blink:

 

I'm having a sod of a time removing the gearbox!!!

 

I'm out of space between gearbox and wheel arch! How the hell do you get the thing to dissengage?

 

I've taken someones advice and set up a swear box - when I've finnished I'll be able to afford a mechanic!

 

Can any one give me any hints????????

 

Cheers (again)

[gregers]

i went to the local ford garage when i bought my 1st gal about 4 years ago and asked them to check if it had missed any recals it did and they done all the work that needed doing f.o.c might be worth asking them.

[seatkid]

;) What kind of advice is that Gregers? The poor man sweating cobs, probably bleeding and hold a gearbox up with one hand.....and you tell to go and see a dealer?

 

Have you undone the gearbox mount under the battery?

[Fat Paul]

Yes, 4 bolts into the plate that drops with the gearbox if you dont support it properly (oops!)

[craig245t]

Have you raised the engine...I havent carried out this procedure (yet..fingers crossed).

 

Have a look at the following in case there is something you have missed...good luck.

 

 

Detach the left-hand front wheel.

 

Slacken the wheel bolts.

Raise the vehicle.

 

Remove the engine undershield (four bolts, two nuts) (right-hand side shown).

 

Lower the vehicle.

 

Pull out the headlamp cover (if present).

 

Remove the upper part of the air cleaner housing.

 

1 Pull off the mass air flow (MAF) connector.

2 Detach the intake hose from the air cleaner housing (one clamp).

3 Open the three clips.

 

 

Note:

Unclip the circlip.

Remove the lower part of the air cleaner housing (push fit).

 

Pull off the breather hose.

 

Detach the secondary air injection hose from the secondary air injection pump (only vehicles with secondary air system).

 

Remove the alternator air cooling hose.

 

Raise the vehicle.

 

Remove the front exhaust pipe.

 

1 Flange bolts

2 Exhaust manifold nuts

3 Bracket bolt.

4 Rubber insulator.

 

Dismantle the right-hand and left-hand wheel suspensions (right-hand side shown).

 

1 Detach the stabiliser link rod.

2 Disconnect the transverse arm ball joint from the spindle carrier (two bolts).

 

Detach the steering gear from the front axle crossmember and tie it up.

 

Detach the engine roll restrictor from the transmission.

 

Note:

Support the front axle crossmember using a transmission jack.

Detach the front axle crossmember and lower it.

 

CAUTION:

The CV joint nearest the wheel must not be bent more than 50

[MadBaz]

:ph34r: ;) :wacko: ;) :angry2:

 

I'm having a sod of a time removing the gearbox!!!

 

I'm out of space between gearbox and wheel arch! How the hell do you get the thing to dissengage?

 

I've taken someones advice and set up a swear box - when I've finnished I'll be able to afford a mechanic!

 

Can any one give me any hints????????

 

Cheers (again)

 

I left the os engine mount loose but not disconnected and lowered box and engine as far as i dared and box fell off very gently (not). just wiggle!! Getting the bloody thing back on is even more fun.

[gregers]

huh.gif What kind of advice is that Gregers? The poor man sweating cobs, probably bleeding and hold a gearbox up with one hand.....and you tell to go and see a dealer?

 

well if his cars in bits it aint going anywhere,but he could phone the dealer and give his vin number to see if its missed any recalls?

[mumof4]

Guess he could just take the part that was subject to a recall to be swapped if any recall work hadnt been done??

[Fat Paul]

I've not tried the dealer for recall yet, but I think I'll try to do it in retrospect and claim money back if possible

 

Finally had the thing appart, and the thrust bearing connected to the slave cylindar had exploded!!!

 

Fingers on the clutch release plate where all at different angles and bits of debris everywhere

 

I'm not an experienced mechanic but I've done a few clutches in my time, and I've never seen one go like this before